Islands &
Atlantic Light

Art in the city

Mount Teide

Mount Teide rising above Tenerife’s rugged volcanic landscape, beneath a clear blue sky.

Nate and Nichole at Mount Teide

Nate and Nichole taking in the volcanic scenery on Tenerife.

Volcanic landscapes

Roques de García

Among the volcanic rocks

A striking rock formation

Plants of the volcanic landscape

Mountain views on Tenerife

Clouds over the mountains

The Auditorio de Tenerife

A stop on Lanzarote

Lanzarote’s dark volcanic earth, low stone walls, and bright white buildings made this stop feel unlike anywhere else on the trip.

Inside the winery

Vines in the volcanic soil

Vines grow in hollows in the dark volcanic ground, with curved stone walls providing shelter.

Lanzarote volcanoes

The volcanic landscape

A vine sheltered by stone

A closer look at one of Lanzarote’s vines, surrounded by volcanic gravel and protected by a low stone wall.

Nate and Nichole in the vineyards

Nate and Nichole exploring Lanzarote’s volcanic landscape.

A roadside glimpse of Lanzarote

Camels on Lanzarote

A line of saddled camels waiting against Lanzarote’s volcanic hills.

Our camel stop

Monument on Lanzarote

The story behind the monument

A colorful mosaic

White walls and palms

Exploring Lisbon

A moment from our day in Lisbon, exploring its streets, viewpoints, waterfront, and ornate buildings.

Lisbon streets

Lisbon Cathedral

Bougainvillea in the sunshine

A tiled fountain

Rooftops above the harbor

A view across Lisbon

Nate and Nichole above Lisbon

Nate and Nichole above Lisbon, with the city and harbor behind us.

Lisbon rooftops and domes

A panorama of Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops, with church domes rising above the city.

Flowers above the city

A Lisbon tram

One of Lisbon’s yellow trams winding through a street lined with colorful buildings.

Along the old streets

Street scenes in Lisbon

Lisbon façades

Blue tile details

A close look at the patterned blue tiles decorating a Lisbon building.

Colorful city streets

Patterns in the tiles

A church in Lisbon

The city from above

Inside a Lisbon church

A quiet chapel

An ornate altar

Carved details overhead

Patterns underfoot

Church towers in the sunshine

Looking along a Lisbon street

Tiles and windows

Weathered façades

Balconies above the street

The Rua Augusta Arch

Inside Landeau Chocolate

Our chocolate stop in Lisbon: Landeau Chocolate, the café founded by Sofia Landeau and known for its signature chocolate cake. Its original location is at LX Factory, a former industrial complex in the Alcântara neighborhood. The airy interior pairs exposed steel and tall windows with vintage furnishings. Sources: Landeau Chocolate; Time Out Lisbon; Lisboa Cool.

Landeau’s famous chocolate cake

The cake that brought us to Landeau: a dense chocolate base, a light mousse-like chocolate layer, and a generous dusting of cocoa. Created by Sofia Landeau, it has earned international attention; The New York Times described it as “devilishly good,” and food writer Dorie Greenspan developed her own Lisbon Chocolate Cake after tasting it here. Sources: Lisboa Cool; The Brick Kitchen; Dorie Greenspan’s Lisbon Chocolate Cake recipe.

The bridge over the Tagus

Cristo Rei across the river

By the waterfront

Jerónimos Monastery details

The monastery tower

Belém Tower

Belém Tower beside the Tagus, with its stone turrets standing out against the blue sky.

Monument to the Discoveries

A church façade

An ornate church interior

Sacred art in Lisbon

Carved marble figures

A tiled portrait

Grand architecture in Lisbon

A fountain in the city

Lisbon from the water

A peaceful Dublin pond

Our first stop in Ireland after the cruise, with time to settle in and explore Dublin.

Memorial in the park

Nate and Nichole in Dublin

Nate and Nichole enjoying a quiet moment in Dublin.

Our stay at the Conrad

The Conrad Dublin, our hotel for the first night of our Ireland stay.

A carved high cross

We stopped at Clonmacnoise beside the River Shannon, wandering among old stone churches, carved crosses, and open views across the grounds.

Clonmacnoise monastery grounds

Clonmacnoise was founded by St. Ciarán around AD 548, making this monastic site nearly 1,500 years old. It began as a Christian community devoted to prayer and religious life, and grew into an important centre of learning, craftsmanship, trade, and pilgrimage. Its position where the River Shannon met a major east–west land route helped it flourish. The first churches were wooden; stone churches followed from the 10th century onward, so the surviving ruins span many different periods. After centuries of raids and gradual decline, the settlement was devastated by the English garrison from Athlone in 1552.

The cathedral at Clonmacnoise

The largest church at Clonmacnoise began as a stone cathedral built in AD 909 with the support of Abbot Colmán and King Flann Sinna. Parts of that original building survive alongside later medieval alterations—more than 1,100 years of history in these walls.

Among the monastery ruins

An ancient stone doorway

Nate and Nichole at Clonmacnoise

Nate and Nichole among the monastery ruins at Clonmacnoise.

Looking through the ruins

Details of a high cross

Stone walls and open sky

The old church walls

Views across the monastery

Clonmacnoise became a renowned place of study, attracting students from across Europe. The surviving churches, round towers, carved high crosses, and early Christian grave slabs reflect its role as a religious and educational centre. Original high crosses are protected indoors, with replicas standing outside.

Arches in the stonework

Exploring Clonmacnoise

Clonmacnoise Castle beside the River Shannon

These are the remains of Clonmacnoise Castle, a separate medieval fortress beside the monastery. Built in 1214 by the chief governor of Ireland, it is more than 800 years old. A stone hall and courtyard formed its core, with timber defenses on the surrounding banks. It may have been deliberately destroyed as early as 1300.

Nate and Nichole in Galway

Nate and Nichole out for an evening in Galway.

Galway shopfronts

An evening in Galway, where colorful shopfronts and warmly lit streets set the scene for a wander through the city.

An evening on Quay Street

Galway after dark

Lights along the street

Morning light over Ireland

Our visit to Ireland’s dramatic Atlantic coastline, with sheer cliffs, green fields, and views out to sea.

A stop at the Cliffs of Moher

O’Brien’s Tower

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher dropping steeply into the Atlantic, with green grass tracing the edge above.

Nate and Nichole at the cliffs

Nate and Nichole at the Cliffs of Moher on Ireland’s Atlantic coast.

Fields above the cliffs

Looking down the coastline

King John’s Castle

A stop in Limerick to explore the castle and the city beside the River Shannon.

Inside the castle walls

A castle tower

The River Shannon in Limerick

Looking along the River Shannon and across the bridge in Limerick.

Nate and Nichole in Limerick

Nate and Nichole taking in the views from King John’s Castle in Limerick.

Looking out from the castle

A stop at The Locke Bar

Barack and Michelle Obama at Barack Obama Plaza

The statues of Barack and Michelle Obama outside Barack Obama Plaza in Moneygall, Ireland.

Nate and Nichole at Barack Obama Plaza

Nate and Nichole posing with the Barack and Michelle Obama statues at Barack Obama Plaza in Moneygall, Ireland.

Our room for the night

Our room at Carton House for the final night of the trip.

Kathleen’s Kitchen

Inside Kathleen’s Kitchen

Breakfast at Carton House

A place to relax

Carton House after dark

A vintage car at Carton House

A closer look at the vintage car

The old service bells

A row of old service bells inside Carton House, each linked to a different room.

The grand dining room

Ornate ceilings at Carton House

A quiet corner

Gilded details

Carton House

Carton House in Maynooth was the country seat of the FitzGerald family, the Earls of Kildare and later Dukes of Leinster. In 1739, the 19th Earl commissioned architect Richard Cassels (also known as Richard Castle) to create the grand house—giving its main 18th-century design nearly 290 years of history by our visit. Built as an aristocratic family home, it hosted generations of family life and entertaining before becoming the hotel we stayed in on our final night in Ireland.

Nate and Nichole outside Carton House

The boathouse

Water and reflections

A stone bridge on the estate

A low stone bridge reflected in the still water on the Carton House estate.

Walking beside the water

The boathouse by the lake

Nate and Nichole on the estate

A final view of Carton House

Arriving in La Palma

La Palma’s steep coastal slopes rise above the harbor as we arrive for our island visit.

Nieuw Statendam in Santa Cruz de La Palma

Our ship in the harbor, with the Atlantic and Santa Cruz de La Palma stretching beyond the hillside.

La Palma’s green mountain scenery

Clouds settle along the ridges above La Palma’s green interior during our drive across the island.

Volcanic rock and an Atlantic view

Dark volcanic rock, island greenery, and a glimpse of the Atlantic during our volcano visit.

A walk through the volcanic landscape

A path between dark volcanic rocks and hardy island plants.

Greenery among the volcanic rocks

A closer look at the plants growing among La Palma’s dark volcanic rocks.

Nate and Nichole at the volcano

Together on La Palma, with the volcanic cone rising behind us during our October 8 visit.

The volcano from the 2021 eruption

The cone formed during La Palma’s 2021 eruption. Activity began on September 19 and ended on December 13, lasting about 85 days, according to Spain’s National Geographic Institute.

A road beside the lava

A wall of rugged lava rises beside the road—a striking view of La Palma’s volcanic landscape.

Across La Palma toward the sea

Homes and green fields stretch toward the Atlantic beneath La Palma’s cloud-covered slopes.

Lava beside a neighborhood street

Dark lava stands close beside a house and road—a striking view from our drive through the eruption area.

Working beside the lava field

An excavator stands on the dark lava field beside fenced land during our visit.

Lava stretching toward the Atlantic

A wide expanse of dark volcanic rock with the Atlantic on the horizon.

A house at the lava’s edge

A quiet house stands beside the volcanic landscape, with the sea beyond.

A home surrounded by lava

Dark lava surrounds a tiled-roof house, showing how closely the eruption affected the island’s neighborhoods.

A closer view of the volcanic cone

A closer look at the cone from our visit to the volcano formed in La Palma’s 2021 eruption.

The scale of the lava field

Rough lava fills the foreground beneath clouds and distant mountain slopes.

Bananas growing on La Palma

A bunch of green bananas hangs among broad leaves behind a stone wall.

Ruta 22 American Diner

The colorful Ruta 22 American Diner sign, spotted during our day on La Palma.

A barraquito coffee break

A barraquito coffee break during our La Palma stop. This layered coffee originated in the Canary Islands, particularly Tenerife, and is traditionally made with condensed milk, coffee, milk, liqueur, cinnamon, and lemon peel.

Santa Cruz de La Palma beneath our feet

A decorative street cover bearing the name Santa Cruz de La Palma and a crest—a small detail worth noticing.

A banana break in town

A banana break while exploring Santa Cruz de La Palma. Canarian bananas, known as plátanos, are famous for their sweet flavor and little brown speckles. The islands’ mild subtropical climate lets them develop slowly on the plant and build up the natural sugars that give them their characteristic sweetness.

Nate and Nichole at Cabo Girão

A favorite photo together, with Madeira’s steep coastline and the Atlantic stretching out behind us.

Funchal from the waterfront

A sweep across Funchal’s waterfront, with the city climbing into the mountains behind the harbor.

Above Funchal

A panorama of Funchal’s hillside neighborhoods, green slopes, and the Atlantic beyond.

Câmara de Lobos harbor

Small fishing boats bob in the sheltered harbor, framed by the village and rocky shoreline.

The CR7 Museum

The Cristiano Ronaldo museum sign on Funchal’s waterfront.

Cristiano Ronaldo on the waterfront

The bronze Cristiano Ronaldo statue beside Funchal’s harbor.

Madeira’s dramatic coast

Sunshine on the Atlantic beneath Madeira’s rocky cliffs.

Cliffs above the ocean

A closer look at the steep coastal slopes and the sea below.

Together at Cristo Rei

Nate and Nichole beneath the outstretched arms of the Cristo Rei statue.

Cristo Rei

The statue stands with its arms extended above Madeira’s coastline.

Flowers and a hillside view

Hydrangeas frame the hillside rooftops and a glimpse of the Atlantic.

A Madeira viewpoint together

Nate and Nichole with hillside neighborhoods and the Atlantic behind us.

A church above the coast

A red-roofed church and bell tower against the deep blue ocean.

Madeira’s hillside neighborhoods

Homes and terraced hills rise toward the mountains beneath low clouds.

A patterned church tower

A striped bell tower stands above red-tiled roofs and hillside homes.

Shade beneath the trees

Spreading branches offer a shady pause during our Madeira day.

Fishing boats by the water

Brightly painted fishing boats pulled up beside the harbor.

A closer look at a fishing boat

A red, white, and blue wooden boat rests beside the harbor wall.

Homes above the harbor

Buildings perch on rocky slopes above the calm water.

A sheltered harbor

Small boats dot the water beneath a bright, cloud-filled sky.

A boat named Charopa

A colorful fishing boat with “Funchal” painted on its hull.

A canopy of color

Bright decorations stretch across a narrow cobbled street.

Nate and Nichole under the decorations

A colorful street and a quick photo together during our Madeira day.

Inside the church

Painted ceilings, gilded details, and wooden pews inside a Madeira church.

Looking up

A closer look at the ornate painted ceiling and gilded decoration.

Details at the altar

A devotional statue framed by elaborate gold-colored carving.

Poncha flavors

Bottles labeled tangerine, passion fruit, and regional poncha.

A glass of poncha

A bright orange drink and a patterned tabletop during our Madeira stop.

A sailing ship in the harbor

A dark-hulled sailing ship rests on the water beneath a cloudy sky.

Along the cobbled streets

Shops and cafés line a narrow street decorated overhead.

580 meters above sea level

The sign beneath our feet marks the height of Cabo Girão’s glass viewing platform: 580 meters above sea level.

Looking through the glass

Our shoes on the Cabo Girão skywalk, with the cliffside and ocean visible through the glass beneath us.

The view from Cabo Girão

Terraced slopes, clifftop neighborhoods, and a sweeping stretch of Madeira’s coast.

A panorama from Cabo Girão

A wide view along Madeira’s dramatic coastline, with terraced fields, hillside homes, and the Atlantic beneath a changing sky.

The Cube Houses

Designed by Piet Blom and built between 1982 and 1984, Rotterdam’s Cube Houses turn ordinary homes into an extraordinary streetscape. Their tilted yellow cubes are one of the city’s best-known landmarks.

A street of tilted houses

A wider view of Piet Blom’s Cube Houses at Overblaak, with their yellow walls and angular roofs.

Looking up at the Cube Houses

The Cube Houses seen from street level: every angle reveals a different arrangement of windows, roofs, and yellow panels.

Nate and Nichole at the Cube Houses

A Rotterdam memory together, with the city’s unmistakable yellow Cube Houses behind us.

The Markthal

Opened on October 1, 2014, the Markthal was designed by MVRDV to combine a covered food market with homes in its enormous arch. It is a striking meeting of everyday shopping and adventurous architecture.

Bicycles by Blaak

Rows of parked bicycles near Blaak—a very Dutch city scene beside Rotterdam’s architectural landmarks.

Cheese at the outdoor market

Wheels and wedges of cheese at the outdoor market beside the Markthal.

Stacks of eggs

Neatly stacked trays of eggs at the outdoor market beside the Markthal.

Flowers at the outdoor market

Bright tulips and colorful blooms among the outdoor market stalls.

Fish at the outdoor market

The fish stall at the outdoor market, with the day’s selection laid out on ice.

The Laurenskerk

Built between around 1449 and 1525, the Laurenskerk is Rotterdam’s surviving late Gothic landmark from the medieval city. Its centuries-old stonework offers a striking contrast to the modern buildings nearby.

The Pencil beside the Cube Houses

The pointed roof gives the Blaaktoren its nickname, “The Pencil.” Designed by Piet Blom, it forms part of the same architectural ensemble as the Cube Houses, completed in 1984.

Spices inside the Markthal

A colorful display of spices inside Rotterdam’s Markthal.

Under the Markthal’s painted ceiling

Inside the Markthal, the huge ceiling artwork “Horn of Plenty,” by Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam, surrounds the market with oversized fruit, flowers, and food imagery.

A taste of Dutch supermarket shelves

Unox hot dogs spotted during our Rotterdam visit.

Herring at the outdoor market

A herring stall at the outdoor market: “haring” is Dutch for herring.

Food choices inside the Markthal

A display of dishes inside the Market Hall—just a few of the many food options.

The Duck Truck

The Duck Truck food counter inside the Markthal.

The herring stall menu

A closer look at the outdoor herring stall’s menu, with rolls and traditional accompaniments.

The city around the Markthal

The Markthal peeks out beyond the surrounding streets and buildings.

Rotterdam’s bold waterfront architecture

A sharply angled modern building rises beside Rotterdam’s waterfront—another example of the city’s adventurous skyline.

A view from the ship

Looking out over Rotterdam’s waterfront from Nieuw Statendam.

Nate and Nichole in Rotterdam

A sunny waterfront photo together during our Rotterdam stop.

Across the Nieuwe Maas

The water, boats, and high-rise skyline that give Rotterdam its maritime character.

The floating-looking Las Palmas penthouse

The capsule-shaped glass penthouse above Las Palmas seems to float over the roof on slender columns. Benthem Crouwel designed the renovation and rooftop addition, which opened in 2007.

A tower on the Wilhelminapier

One of the tall residential buildings framing the waterfront around the cruise terminal.

Hotel New York and Holland America history

Hotel New York occupies the former headquarters of Holland America Line, dating from 1901. The building became a hotel and restaurant in 1993—a lovely connection to the cruise line taking us on this voyage.

The Tornado at Fenix

This gleaming spiral is the Tornado at Fenix, Rotterdam’s art museum about migration. Designed by Ma Yansong of MAD Architects, it leads to a rooftop viewpoint. Fenix opened to the public on May 16, 2025.

Montevideo on the waterfront

The Montevideo residential tower, completed in 2005, is one of the prominent buildings on Rotterdam’s Wilhelminapier.

A closer view of Hotel New York

A closer look at Hotel New York’s historic brickwork and green tower, framed by the modern waterfront skyline.

Ready for the voyage

Brekkie before boarding

Traditional English breakfast at the Dover Marina Hotel on the morning of October 2, before boarding Nieuw Statendam.

Nate and Nichole in Canterbury

The White Cliffs of Dover

The White Cliffs of Dover get their striking white color from chalk—a soft limestone formed from the remains of tiny marine organisms in an ancient sea. A beautiful backdrop as our Atlantic voyage begins.

Dover Castle above the cliffs

Dover Castle has guarded the English Channel for centuries. Much of the medieval fortress we see today was built under King Henry II in the late 12th century: work on its Great Tower and inner bailey began in 1179 and was largely complete around 1189. Later generations strengthened its defenses and added tunnels, adapting the site for warfare into the 20th century.

Canterbury Cathedral in the sunshine

Founded by St Augustine in AD 597, Canterbury Cathedral was rebuilt by Archbishop Lanfranc between 1070 and 1077. The building we see today grew through centuries of rebuilding and additions. Canterbury Cathedral is closely tied to Thomas Becket, its medieval archbishop. Once an ally of King Henry II, Becket clashed with the king over the Church’s independence. On December 29, 1170, four knights murdered him inside the cathedral. He was later declared a saint, and his shrine made Canterbury one of medieval Europe’s great pilgrimage destinations. That pilgrimage tradition also inspired Geoffrey Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales, written in the late 14th century. Its characters travel from London to Canterbury to visit Becket’s shrine, telling stories along the way.

Canterbury streets

Among Canterbury’s historic streets stands a First World War memorial, honoring those who lost their lives in the conflict—a quiet reminder of the sacrifices behind this peaceful city scene.

The cathedral gateway

Christ Church Gate has welcomed visitors into Canterbury Cathedral’s grounds for more than 500 years. Completed around 1520, this Tudor Gothic gateway is decorated with intricate carvings and Tudor coats of arms. Its restored stonework and gilded details make it a striking entrance from the city into the cathedral precincts.

Details in stone

The Canterbury War Horse

The Canterbury War Horse remembers the human and animal lives lost in conflict. According to the nearby sign, more than eight million horses died in the First World War, and many passed through Kent on their way to the continent. The horse’s bowed head conveys respect and solemn remembrance. The sculpture was a collaboration between Canterbury Cathedral and the Canterbury School of Visual Arts at EKC Canterbury College, bringing together students, academics, and the college’s technical and engineering teams.

Dover Marina Hotel

Our hotel for the night in Dover, October 1–2, before boarding Nieuw Statendam for our Atlantic voyage.

Nate and Nichole on the Dover waterfront

Ferries beneath the White Cliffs

A closer look at Canterbury Cathedral

The Corner House menu

Lunch at The Corner House in Canterbury was amazing.

Gluten-free bread and vegan butter

Treacle bread and butter

Pork scratchings

Roasted squash

Whipped chicken liver parfait

Wild mushroom and sage risotto

Baked herb-crumbed cod

The voyage ahead

Two weeks of Atlantic light, island ports, long dinners, and the kind of days we will talk about for years.